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Starting Out by Junx Muaña
Filed Under: CAMPFIRE »
Date: Monday, July 18, 2011
For the novice climber, the need to acquire equipment is as urgent as heading for the next trailhead. And for good reason. The proper choice and use of equipment will guarantee safe and comfortable movement through the mountains. And I stress the word proper for, in this age of flashy high-tech and hard-sell marketing, the novice climber is usually led to buy more than he actually needs; struggling up the mountain under an enormous load, only to find half of what he brought along unused after the climb. It is quite easy not to fall into this trap and instead be a more energy- and cost-efficient climber by following these simple guidelines:
KNOW YOUR BODY AND THE KIND OF CLIMBING YOU DO
Theoretically, you should be able to carry a third of your weight comfortably. However, your level of fitness and modern backpack technology allow you to carry more.
Knowing your body intimately also helps. If, for example, you have a high tolerance to cold, you can trim down cold weather gear to a minimum.
The type of climbing you do determines the kind of equipment you do and do not need. If your trips are limited to weekend treks at low to moderate altitudes, then a small rucksack; a light sleeping bag; and running shoes will suffice.
On the other hand, if you climb at high altitudes, then you will need a larger, more sophisticated pack; a three-season sleeping bag; and mountaineering boots.
KNOW YOUR PRIORITIES
You will realize big savings if you shop wisely. If you pick just about everything that a climber needs off the catalogue and totaled the amount, you’ll find that the cost is enough for airfare to Kathmandu – with some pocket money to spare.
Concentrate on things you really need. Personal items like a backpack, boots, and a sleeping bag are priorities. A tent, stove, and cooking utensils can be considered group equipment which your club or friends can loan to you.
But, a word of caution: do acquire these things eventually, as even the most generous of friends have their limits.
Gear manufactured locally and second-hand items are just as good – and cost a lot less – than imported or brand-new ones, if you check the quality and condition carefully.
INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL FRAME PACK?
An External Frame Pack is basically constructed of aluminum tubing: welded, riveted or bolted together with connectors (Some are made of plastic.).
The shoulder straps, hipbelt, and pack bag are attached directly to the frame; while around it are back bands of either webbing or mesh stretched taut to hold the frame away from your back and shoulders.
Because the load is distributed over a large area, it is capable of carrying large loads comfortably. It is also better ventilated, more stable, and has the convenience of extra pockets.
However, its rigid frame, bulk, and high center of gravity limit its use to wide trails where balance and agility are not very critical.
The Internal Frame Pack is the larger descendant of the classic rucksack. It utilizes two parallel aluminum stays running vertically inside a fabric or webbing sleeve within the pack itself to give it structural rigidity.
Its suspension system is more complicated. The shoulder harness and hipbelt are fixed to stays (adjustable in some models); while additional straps and buckles adjust and draw the load tight every which way, in order to compensate for its inherent lack of horizontal stability.
Although it cannot equal the external frame pack’s load capacity, the internal frame pack excels in conditions where delicate balance and agility are required. This is because of its narrow profile and body-hugging fit.
Climbing conditions in this country generally favor the internal frame; hence, its popularity.
DO YOU REALLY NEED A SLEEPING BAG?
Yes. Although it is generally hot the year round in this country, people have actually died of severe exposure to cold at higher altitudes.
The ideal sleeping bag, if you are a serious climber, would be a two- to three-season mummy with synthetic insulation. The mummy shape, because it is cut to follow the contours of the body, saves on weight and has lesser dead air space for extra warmth.
Synthetic insulation, although it has more bulk than down, has the ability to stay warm even when wet – and it dries quickly.
Other features to look for in a good bag are: draft tube – an insulation-filled tube behind the zipper to prevent cold from seeping in; differential cut – where the inside shelf is cut smaller than the outer shell to prevent excessive compression of the insulation; and Louvre construction – where insulation is arranged in overlapping shingles for maximum loft.
BOOTS
The shock your feet receive during a climb is tremendous; therefore, it is imperative that you protect these marvels of engineering with proper footwear.
Lightweight nylon/leather boots have become very popular because of their weight (or lack of it); comfort; relative stability; looks; and price.
One major drawback, of course, is that they don’t last as long as traditional leather boots.
When choosing a pair, select one with a sole that has sufficient traction but is not too destructive to the trail.
THE PERFECT TENT
This has always been and will always remain a myth.
Climbing conditions are as varied as the types of tent in the market.
Tents can be classified according to their basic shapes: A-frame (and variations thereof), Hoop or Tunnel, and Dome tents.
Although A-frame and Hoop tents are generally lighter and more compact, most climbers prefer the Dome because it is free-standing, has greater volume to area ratio, and is more stable.
Personally, I prefer the clip system of attaching the tent body to the poles, as opposed to the sleeve system, because it is much easier to set up. The clips are usually attached to the body with “shock cords”, which absorb most of the force when the tent is subjected to strong winds.
Tent poles of aircraft aluminum are superior to fiberglass poles – in terms of weight, strength, and durability.
An added feature would be if they were shock-corded (sections connected together by elastic cords) to prevent loss.
WHICH STOVE?
Because the use of a camping stove minimizes the impact on the environment, this is reason enough to buy one.
But, which one?
Butane stoves are certainly easier to operate but they have been known to cause accidents – due to carelessness – and are inconvenient when travelling by air.
Your best bet would be a multi-fuel, pressure stove or one that burns kerosene, as this fuel is available – even in the most remote barrio. These stoves have their disadvantages though as you’d have to deal with priming and pumping (a messy procedure, at best), and they are generally heavier.
The philosophy of climbing has changed radically over the years. Where once, it used to be man’s conquest over nature, it is now more of experiencing nature on its own terms.
Only, we have the technological edge to make this experience safer, more accessible, and more comfortable for just about anybody.
So, the next time anybody asks you: “Why do you climb mountains?” You might as well say: “Because it’s there, and I’m prepared for it.”
KNOW YOUR BODY AND THE KIND OF CLIMBING YOU DO
Theoretically, you should be able to carry a third of your weight comfortably. However, your level of fitness and modern backpack technology allow you to carry more.
Knowing your body intimately also helps. If, for example, you have a high tolerance to cold, you can trim down cold weather gear to a minimum.
The type of climbing you do determines the kind of equipment you do and do not need. If your trips are limited to weekend treks at low to moderate altitudes, then a small rucksack; a light sleeping bag; and running shoes will suffice.
On the other hand, if you climb at high altitudes, then you will need a larger, more sophisticated pack; a three-season sleeping bag; and mountaineering boots.
KNOW YOUR PRIORITIES
You will realize big savings if you shop wisely. If you pick just about everything that a climber needs off the catalogue and totaled the amount, you’ll find that the cost is enough for airfare to Kathmandu – with some pocket money to spare.
Concentrate on things you really need. Personal items like a backpack, boots, and a sleeping bag are priorities. A tent, stove, and cooking utensils can be considered group equipment which your club or friends can loan to you.
But, a word of caution: do acquire these things eventually, as even the most generous of friends have their limits.
Gear manufactured locally and second-hand items are just as good – and cost a lot less – than imported or brand-new ones, if you check the quality and condition carefully.
INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL FRAME PACK?
An External Frame Pack is basically constructed of aluminum tubing: welded, riveted or bolted together with connectors (Some are made of plastic.).
The shoulder straps, hipbelt, and pack bag are attached directly to the frame; while around it are back bands of either webbing or mesh stretched taut to hold the frame away from your back and shoulders.
Because the load is distributed over a large area, it is capable of carrying large loads comfortably. It is also better ventilated, more stable, and has the convenience of extra pockets.
However, its rigid frame, bulk, and high center of gravity limit its use to wide trails where balance and agility are not very critical.
The Internal Frame Pack is the larger descendant of the classic rucksack. It utilizes two parallel aluminum stays running vertically inside a fabric or webbing sleeve within the pack itself to give it structural rigidity.
Its suspension system is more complicated. The shoulder harness and hipbelt are fixed to stays (adjustable in some models); while additional straps and buckles adjust and draw the load tight every which way, in order to compensate for its inherent lack of horizontal stability.
Although it cannot equal the external frame pack’s load capacity, the internal frame pack excels in conditions where delicate balance and agility are required. This is because of its narrow profile and body-hugging fit.
Climbing conditions in this country generally favor the internal frame; hence, its popularity.
DO YOU REALLY NEED A SLEEPING BAG?
Yes. Although it is generally hot the year round in this country, people have actually died of severe exposure to cold at higher altitudes.
The ideal sleeping bag, if you are a serious climber, would be a two- to three-season mummy with synthetic insulation. The mummy shape, because it is cut to follow the contours of the body, saves on weight and has lesser dead air space for extra warmth.
Synthetic insulation, although it has more bulk than down, has the ability to stay warm even when wet – and it dries quickly.
Other features to look for in a good bag are: draft tube – an insulation-filled tube behind the zipper to prevent cold from seeping in; differential cut – where the inside shelf is cut smaller than the outer shell to prevent excessive compression of the insulation; and Louvre construction – where insulation is arranged in overlapping shingles for maximum loft.
BOOTS
The shock your feet receive during a climb is tremendous; therefore, it is imperative that you protect these marvels of engineering with proper footwear.
Lightweight nylon/leather boots have become very popular because of their weight (or lack of it); comfort; relative stability; looks; and price.
One major drawback, of course, is that they don’t last as long as traditional leather boots.
When choosing a pair, select one with a sole that has sufficient traction but is not too destructive to the trail.
THE PERFECT TENT
This has always been and will always remain a myth.
Climbing conditions are as varied as the types of tent in the market.
Tents can be classified according to their basic shapes: A-frame (and variations thereof), Hoop or Tunnel, and Dome tents.
Although A-frame and Hoop tents are generally lighter and more compact, most climbers prefer the Dome because it is free-standing, has greater volume to area ratio, and is more stable.
Personally, I prefer the clip system of attaching the tent body to the poles, as opposed to the sleeve system, because it is much easier to set up. The clips are usually attached to the body with “shock cords”, which absorb most of the force when the tent is subjected to strong winds.
Tent poles of aircraft aluminum are superior to fiberglass poles – in terms of weight, strength, and durability.
An added feature would be if they were shock-corded (sections connected together by elastic cords) to prevent loss.
WHICH STOVE?
Because the use of a camping stove minimizes the impact on the environment, this is reason enough to buy one.
But, which one?
Butane stoves are certainly easier to operate but they have been known to cause accidents – due to carelessness – and are inconvenient when travelling by air.
Your best bet would be a multi-fuel, pressure stove or one that burns kerosene, as this fuel is available – even in the most remote barrio. These stoves have their disadvantages though as you’d have to deal with priming and pumping (a messy procedure, at best), and they are generally heavier.
The philosophy of climbing has changed radically over the years. Where once, it used to be man’s conquest over nature, it is now more of experiencing nature on its own terms.
Only, we have the technological edge to make this experience safer, more accessible, and more comfortable for just about anybody.
So, the next time anybody asks you: “Why do you climb mountains?” You might as well say: “Because it’s there, and I’m prepared for it.”